Lavender Route 2

Route 2: Peter Mayle Country

Starting at the little city of Apt- try to be there on Saturday for one of the largest markets in Provence- go west on N100 in the direction of Goult. Another starting point can be the charming village of Lourmarin. Take D943 in the direction of Bonnieux. This is a breath-taking drive though a valley that leads to a climbing road, white cliffs on each side, studded with oaks and pines.Bonnieux is at the top of this climb. A stop can be made here for a look at the stunning view but it is really just on the way to the rest of our drive.



Taking D36, you will pass the exit to the village of Lacoste, with the ruined chateaux of the Marquis de Sade, the man who gave the language the word “sadist.”. Be sure to stop at the village of Goult, a peaceful and lovely stop, quite prosperous looking with several interesting looking restaurants and much more compelling to visit than the often mentioned Menerbes of Peter Mayle fame.Carry on to Coustellet changing to highway D2 in the direction of Gordes. As you near this town you will pass many walls built of stone, topped in an unusual way with slabs of stones lying sideways. All of the homes are built of stone, making one wonder how there is enough soil for anything to grow here. But things do grow, with lavender often clinging to the rocks and village markets selling summer produce. The melons are especially delicious in this part of France.Gordes resides at the top of yet another hill-you will get a fabulous view of it as you drive up the hill and understand why it was used as a lookout point by the French Resistance during the Second World War to watch the movements of German troups in the valley below.Gordes is a popular tourist center, with shops and restaurants, and is a charming place to stop for lunch. You will see signs for directions to the Borries, an interesting ancient village of rock huts occupied a homes until the coming of electricity.



Continue on D2 to Joucas, a small village with many climbing rock-lined walkways and lovely doors and windows. From here follow signs to Sault via D943, through more lavender country. In August, a lavender festival is held here. During the harvest period of lavender, it isn’t unusual to find yourself behind a slow truck or tractor which are packed with bundles of lavender and, when the lovely fragrance of it fills your car, you won’t mind the slow pace.Return the same route back and this time head for St Saturnin les Apt, the home of a ruined chateau at the top of a climb, and D111will return you back to Apt. This area is well known for the ochre that was once mined here and you will pass areas where the soil is a rich red or gold color. Roussillon is well worth a stop for being both an interesting village and the site of a walk through some of the rich colored canyons. In many of the stores you can buy packets of the ochre colored powder in many different ranges of shades that can be mixed with paint and sponged on a wall back home, taking a little of Provence back with you- sunshine on the wall.