The Covered Arcades of Paris

The Covered Arcades of Paris

Paris is full of famous monuments known the world over that are a delight to see and visit. They are huge, seen from miles away and from many areas of Paris-turn a corner and there is one of them. The first time visitor has to see them all-the Eiffel Tower, Arch de Triumph, Notre Dame. Their presence is a testiment to hundreds of years of history that rolled along in this part of the world, sometimes built on top of temples and relics from thousands of years ago.

All of these shrines to man, and sometimes, to God, should be seen. They are amazing. But sometimes it is refreshing to see a part of history from the not so distant past, as close as 150 years ago, in the galeries, or covered passages of Paris which give one a feel for Paris as it was in the 19th century. These first “shopping malls” allowed shoppers respite from the weather, not to mention the open sewers and unpaved streets outside as Haussman had not yet begun his monumental work which not only changed Paris to the city it is today but constructed the much needed underground sewer system. There were 150 of these arcades by the mid 19th century but only 18 remain today, nearly all on the right bank.Each arcade that remains is unique. Some have been beautifully restored to their original splendor, some are slowly continuing their descent into disrepair.

It is possible to see seven of these arcades all in one area, some of them running in a straight line one after another. A good place to start is the Galerie Vero Dodat located near Rue du Rivoli at 19 rue Jean-Jacques-Rousseau still remaining much as it was 150 years ago with its marble floors and painted ceilings.



From here it is a short walk to Palais Royal location of one of the most charming gardens in Paris often unvisited by visitors. Marvelous covered galeries run down each side of the building with columns and speared fences topped with gold marching along. Interesting shops line each side and Colette (the movie Gigi was based on one of her short stories) lived at the very end above the children’s playground. Continue on through the archway on the right, cross the narrow street and go up the stairs there, feeling like a Parisian who knows a great shortcut. You will enter a short alley called Passage des Deux Pavillions with a store selling interesting postcards. Crossing the street and to the right is Passage Vivienne, perhaps the most exquisite of all the remaining arcades with shafts of light coming down from the glass celling to the marble floor. Two great stops here are LeGrand Filles and Fils for a wine tasting or a great variety of wine accoutrement, such as wine glasses and cork screws. A little further down in A Priori The for a light lunch and a cup of tea. Next is Passage Cobert, now owned by the Bibliotheque Nationale.

Exit Passage Vivienne, turn right and walk to Passage Choiseul. This one lacks charm and sophistication, and is a more working class environment, but is lined with interesting shops and it leads to Passage Panoramas, a short walk away at 10 Rue St-Marc, which actually did once posses panaoramas in two large rotundas, now gone. There are shops here selling stamps for serious collectors and some very interesting antique postcards fun to look at to see how Paris has changed.

Directly across the street from here is my favorite passage, Passage Jouffroy lined with fun toys stores, kitchen ware shops, small restaurants and the Musee Grevin, the equivalent of Madme Tussaud’s, home of wax figures of famous people. It is a relaxing passage to walk through, looking up at the clock near the roof, the glass ceiling, the feeling of time past, with its charm and simpler times. At the end, across the street, is yet one more, Passage Verdeau, a contiuation of the previous two, but not as charming.