The Covered Arcades of Paris

The Covered Arcades of Paris

Paris is full of famous monuments known the world over that are a delight to see and visit. They are huge, seen from miles away and from many areas of Paris-turn a corner and there is one of them. The first time visitor has to see them all-the Eiffel Tower, Arch de Triumph, Notre Dame. Their presence is a testiment to hundreds of years of history that rolled along in this part of the world, sometimes built on top of temples and relics from thousands of years ago.

All of these shrines to man, and sometimes, to God, should be seen. They are amazing. But sometimes it is refreshing to see a part of history from the not so distant past, as close as 150 years ago, in the galeries, or covered passages of Paris which give one a feel for Paris as it was in the 19th century. These first “shopping malls” allowed shoppers respite from the weather, not to mention the open sewers and unpaved streets outside as Haussman had not yet begun his monumental work which not only changed Paris to the city it is today but constructed the much needed underground sewer system. There were 150 of these arcades by the mid 19th century but only 18 remain today, nearly all on the right bank.Each arcade that remains is unique. Some have been beautifully restored to their original splendor, some are slowly continuing their descent into disrepair.

It is possible to see seven of these arcades all in one area, some of them running in a straight line one after another. A good place to start is the Galerie Vero Dodat located near Rue du Rivoli at 19 rue Jean-Jacques-Rousseau still remaining much as it was 150 years ago with its marble floors and painted ceilings.



From here it is a short walk to Palais Royal location of one of the most charming gardens in Paris often unvisited by visitors. Marvelous covered galeries run down each side of the building with columns and speared fences topped with gold marching along. Interesting shops line each side and Colette (the movie Gigi was based on one of her short stories) lived at the very end above the children’s playground. Continue on through the archway on the right, cross the narrow street and go up the stairs there, feeling like a Parisian who knows a great shortcut. You will enter a short alley called Passage des Deux Pavillions with a store selling interesting postcards. Crossing the street and to the right is Passage Vivienne, perhaps the most exquisite of all the remaining arcades with shafts of light coming down from the glass celling to the marble floor. Two great stops here are LeGrand Filles and Fils for a wine tasting or a great variety of wine accoutrement, such as wine glasses and cork screws. A little further down in A Priori The for a light lunch and a cup of tea. Next is Passage Cobert, now owned by the Bibliotheque Nationale.

Exit Passage Vivienne, turn right and walk to Passage Choiseul. This one lacks charm and sophistication, and is a more working class environment, but is lined with interesting shops and it leads to Passage Panoramas, a short walk away at 10 Rue St-Marc, which actually did once posses panaoramas in two large rotundas, now gone. There are shops here selling stamps for serious collectors and some very interesting antique postcards fun to look at to see how Paris has changed.

Directly across the street from here is my favorite passage, Passage Jouffroy lined with fun toys stores, kitchen ware shops, small restaurants and the Musee Grevin, the equivalent of Madme Tussaud’s, home of wax figures of famous people. It is a relaxing passage to walk through, looking up at the clock near the roof, the glass ceiling, the feeling of time past, with its charm and simpler times. At the end, across the street, is yet one more, Passage Verdeau, a contiuation of the previous two, but not as charming.

Carcassonne and the Hotel de la Cite

Special hotels are often found in very special places. I once stayed at a hotel perched in the mountains right next to Machu Pichu. At night, after the crowds left, we had the whole place to ourselves and could wander around at will. The same was true of Mont St. Michel. There is something special about a beautiful place when it is almost deserted. My husband and I experienced all this magic all over again on a wonderful trip to the enchanting city of Carcassone, where we stayed at an equally enchanting hotel, the Hotel de la Cité. It turned out to be the perfect hotel for the perfect stay.


What makes this particular hotel extraordinary is that it is embedded into the ancient walls surrounding this fortified town, which seems to be lost in time.
Upon approach, the walled city of Carcassone can be seen from a distance. Ominous and magical at the same time, it is a fortress out of a fairytale with its fifty-two watch towers and double wall, the result of sixteen centuries of work.
No sooner had we pulled into a parking area, we were picked up by the small blue van sent by the hotel, driven through an old gate and up to the doors of the hotel. As the van inched its way past a group of onlookers who must have wondered if we were royalty, royalty is what we felt like stepping into the marble floored reception hall filled with antiques and a resplendent odor of Easter lilies that had been arranged in an enormous vase and placed in the middle of the sumptuous room where we were checked in.
Hotel de la Cité is one of the Orient-Express Hotels found all over the world, renowned not only for the train of that name, but for their attention to luxury that keeps a faithful clientèle coming back again and again. From the moment we arrived until the moment we left, we knew that the only thing we had to worry about was how we were going to spend the blissful evening before us.
Built on the site of a former Episcopal palace, and in operation since 1909 (it was purchased in 1997 by Orient-Express) the Hotel de la Cité has a long guest roster that includes Rudyard Kipling, Winston Churchill, Colette, James Stewart, Goldie Hawn and many other celebrities.
The Hotel has three restaurants. The most famous is a gourmet bastion, La Barbacane that features dishes such as free-range guinea-fowl rubbed with vanilla and carpaccio of foie-gras on a bed of pink lentil salad. A less formal lunch or dinner can be enjoyed at the brasserie Chez Saskia with its large selection of traditional French cuisine including cassoulet, the famous dish of this region.
When the weather is beautiful, there is a lovely restaurant in the Jardin de l'Evêque where a meal can be enjoyed under trees in a garden. There is also an area for private wine tastings or medieval candlelit dinners in the wine cellar with its arched brick ceiling, red terracotta floors and bottle-lined oak panelling.
Our room was perfect too: a marble-lined bathroom with a sumptuous tub to luxuriate in, a signature container at the foot of the bed where, at the touch of a button, the TV rose up for viewing on the horizontal. The room had a beautiful view of some of the city walls, and we were able to look down onto the busy narrow streets snaking below.



The best part of our visit was after dinner when we wandered around the now empty streets. The walls, now lit up, and the calmness everywhere made us feel like kids again, and we climbed up and down stone stairways, peeking through portals along the top of the outer wall, marveling at the city down below. That was when, gazing up at a star-studded sky, I had a smidgeon of an idea of what it must have been like centuries ago to stand on these very ramparts and know that no matter what goes on outside the walls of Carcassonne, time rolls on.

Web site for city: www.carcassonne.culture.fr
Web site for Hotel: www.orient-express.com
Hotel de la Cité
Place Auguste Pont
1100 Carcassonne, France
tel. +33-468 71 98 71
fax +33-468 71 50 15

An Unexpected Work of Art

Paris Meridian Medallions
Would you believe that there is some art in Paris that most visitors never see and often walk on unknowingly? Few people are aware of these 135 bronze medallions embedded in the pavement of Paris, which start north in Montmartre and go clear across Paris, where they end at the Cité Universitaire on the edge of the city limits and Parc Montsouris.

You will notice one of them while visiting the Palais Royal; a little bronze circle embedded in the pavement with the name Arago and north and south represented by the letter N and S .You may not know who Arago is and may have read of these medallions in the best selling book, The Da Vinci Code, where you learn that the medallions represented a meridian line that was used by France.

Many countries had their own meridian lines on one time, including France. The French were very advanced in the science of time and the measurement of the earth. French scientist Abbé Jean Picard first measured the length of a degree of longitude and computed from it the size of the earth in 1655. In fact, the metric system was started at this time, the meter being 1 ten-millionth of a meridian quadrant from the North Pole to the equator. The meridian line was used both for navigation and time keeping. France, along with Ireland, adhered to the Paris Meridian for time keeping until 1911 and for navigation until 1914, when it finally converted to the Greenwich Meridian with the rest of the world.

Why is Arago on this medallion? He was a scientist and a statesman who became director of the Paris Observatory where he lived until his death in 1853. There is a monument to him across Arago Boulevard in Place Ile de Sein in the 14th arrondissement but the statue of him was melted down during World War II and never replaced. In 1995 Paris commissioned Dutch conceptual artist Jan Dibbits to create a new memorial. And now you can follow the path of this art through gardens, streets, buildings, courtyards and quais, through the 2nd, 6th, 9th, 10th and 12th arrondissements. As you do so you will notice that practically nothing built in Paris is on any straight north, south, east or west axis, neither streets or buildings. You can find a medallion on one side of a building and have to go blocks out of your way to get to the other side to find yet another medallion. The whole thing can become rather addictive.

Finding a list of the medallions with the address and general location of them gives one the feeling that they would be easy to find but you will soon find that this is not the case. It is helpful to note the direction of north and south on the medallions themselves and follow an imaginary line from one to another. You will discover that a few have either been dug up leaving an empty hole or covered with asphalt in others. People may stop you to ask if they can help you find the lost object you appear to be looking for as you scan the ground looking for these mysterious speres. You will often confuse what you think is a possible medallion for one of the many round gas or plumbling coverings which lie all over the pavements of Paris.
You may have hope of locating all of the medallions in one day and it could be done but you will find that after the first three exhausting hours on the first day that you will want to spread out the time to two or three days. A good place to start is at the locked gates of the observatory garden where Arago once did his research. The observatory itself is built on the line of the Parisioan Meridian with the four facades oriented towards the four points of the compass. You will find the monument to Arago with several medallions from there and ended up in beautiful Parc Montsouris where the marker for the southern edge stands. Going straight north from this you will find four more medallions and discover they are always embedded in cement or asphalt, never dirt or grass. Perhaps the next day you can through the Saint Germain des Pres area, through the Luxembourg gardens (there are six there) and even go into Saint Sulpice church where there is an obelisk on the north/south axis in a corner. The early church officials used to use this to watch the movement of the sun to determine the date of Easter. It has nothing to do with the Meridian Line itself despite what Dan Brown said in his book and, by the way, was never called The Rose Line.

Walk through the Palais Royal then cross the street to the Louvre where not only does a line of medallions run through the courtyard behind the I.M. Pei pyramid, but there is also one inside the Louvre. Go on the other side of the Louvre, find one on the quai, crossed Pont des Arts and find one in front of the Institut de France and then one behind it.

The most northern marker is in Montmartre but can't be seen as it is in a private courtyard. You can walk downhill from here through Montmartre finding medallions all the way to Pigalle where most had been removed at some point leaving either round holes or nothing. The line continues all the way down to Boulevard Haussmann.

It turns out to be a very interesting way to see Paris.You don't go to just one metro stop to see a monument such as the Opéra, but walk across neighborhoods with a new eye, realizing how small Paris can be, how connected all of the neighborhoods are. It turns out to be an adventurous way to explore Paris.
For the location of the medallions visit:
christophermolloy.com » outdoor living » gps » paris meridian / arago medallions

Cinque Terra

Italy's Cinque Terra has become a popular destination, one of the country's most visited. It is, in fact, a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Once you have visited you understand why this area is so seductive. There are eighteen kilometers of sheer rocky coastline punctuated with picturesque villages that spill down the hillsides to the sea below. Although it is full of tourists now it is also full of charm and ambiance. The Cinque Terra refers to five small villages, each with its own personality: Monterossa al Mare, Vernazza, Corniglia, Manarola and Riomaggiore. They string together side by side along the coast and are connected by a train line that seems to run mostly through tunnels. The train starts at la Spezia and it is the best way to get to these isolated towns. Driving from France is a tedious trip through tunnel after tunnel and winding roads that will have you arriving hours later than you think you will when you look at the map. There is a local ferry service between the villages as well as a trail between them. It takes about five hours of walking, starting at the first one and ending at the fifth. A few places are rather rough and it can be hard going, and it is physically challenging to say the least but a wonderfully exciting and satisfying trip experience. There are breathtaking views all along the way

By driving and arriving at Vernazza you may or may not find parking spaces outside the village. The local inhabitants will, for a fee, keep an eye on your car during the night. Walking into the village (driving isn't allowed), you will discover that there are no formal hotels, except in the more touristy town of Riomaggiore. There has only been a little adjustment to the influx of tourists by the locals and there will perhaps be some discomforts for tourists used to all-inclusive excursions with pre-arranged reservations. If you arrive on your own, you will find the locals offering rooms at reasonable fees and if the one you had hoped for should happen to be booked, the owner will probably lean out their window, and call across the way to see if a neighbor has a room. Luxury won't be found this way, the bells of the local church can wake one hourly, and the trains can be heard whizzing by, but it is a fun way to spend your time there and you get to see how charming the area is when most of the tourists have gone home for the day.

It is easy to imagine how it once was in simpler times as you sit at the table of a cafe in one of these small villages, drinking wine grown on the vines that you can see on the terraced hills up above and munching on olives grown on the nearby trees. You can eat fish, as seafood is plentiful, caught in the waters by the town from the boats tied up in the tiny harbors. Try a glass of the locally made sweet wine called sciachletra as an after dinner drink.

Lavender Route 3

Route 3: Lavender and Faience

Valensole, the home of the best of the lavender festivals, held annually, can be reached from the larger city of Manosque, via the D6. As you approach the village, lavender fields all in bloom treat to your eyes and your nose. Normally held the third weekend in July, the festival brings visitors from all over the south for its lavender market, food booths and simply the fun of the day. Booths selling lavender products of all kinds line the main street of the village, and the products stir the imagination: lavender soaps, of course, perfumes, essential oils, but also lavender sausage, lavender ice cream, lavender lamps, and large armfuls of freshly cut lavendeFrom Valensole, the D8 leads to Metzel or you can take D953 to Puimoisson and head into Riez, which holds a famous week-end market specializing in Provencal products. Here you will also find, in a nearby field, a recreated portion of a Roman temple and a 6th century baptistry.



To the east, about 15 kilometers away on D952, is Moustiers-Ste-Marie. Moustiers produced one of the most famous faiences in France in the eighteenth century, maintains the tradition of its production today. Faience is a clay-based French pottery distinguished by regional designs--one of the other most famous is the Breton pattern made in Quimper--and Moustier's patterns are not inexpensive but certainly elegant, as they once graced the tables of France's royalty and aristocratic families. If you look closely, as you approach this village on the mountainous route, you will see a silver star suspended on a chain between two mountain peaks, put there by a fourteenth-century knight who survived the crusades. This is a scenic village, more than worth a visit for its charm even without the lure of the faience. There is a vigorous climb to a church at the top of the village with a great view of the region spread below and the stream rushing through it. From here, either return to Manosque through Riez to Greoux–les-Bains, an old bath town of the Romans with a pretty village center and pedestrian walk, a good place for a night's stopover, or as a base for exploring this region of upper Provence. Alternatively, you can carry on through the truly breath-taking Grand Canyon du Verdon, making your way to the city of Castellane to spend the night. An added advantage to the area is that in July when much of Provence is baking under the summer sun, this region is cooler and quite pleasant, especially in the evenings.

Lavender Route 2

Route 2: Peter Mayle Country

Starting at the little city of Apt- try to be there on Saturday for one of the largest markets in Provence- go west on N100 in the direction of Goult. Another starting point can be the charming village of Lourmarin. Take D943 in the direction of Bonnieux. This is a breath-taking drive though a valley that leads to a climbing road, white cliffs on each side, studded with oaks and pines.Bonnieux is at the top of this climb. A stop can be made here for a look at the stunning view but it is really just on the way to the rest of our drive.



Taking D36, you will pass the exit to the village of Lacoste, with the ruined chateaux of the Marquis de Sade, the man who gave the language the word “sadist.”. Be sure to stop at the village of Goult, a peaceful and lovely stop, quite prosperous looking with several interesting looking restaurants and much more compelling to visit than the often mentioned Menerbes of Peter Mayle fame.Carry on to Coustellet changing to highway D2 in the direction of Gordes. As you near this town you will pass many walls built of stone, topped in an unusual way with slabs of stones lying sideways. All of the homes are built of stone, making one wonder how there is enough soil for anything to grow here. But things do grow, with lavender often clinging to the rocks and village markets selling summer produce. The melons are especially delicious in this part of France.Gordes resides at the top of yet another hill-you will get a fabulous view of it as you drive up the hill and understand why it was used as a lookout point by the French Resistance during the Second World War to watch the movements of German troups in the valley below.Gordes is a popular tourist center, with shops and restaurants, and is a charming place to stop for lunch. You will see signs for directions to the Borries, an interesting ancient village of rock huts occupied a homes until the coming of electricity.



Continue on D2 to Joucas, a small village with many climbing rock-lined walkways and lovely doors and windows. From here follow signs to Sault via D943, through more lavender country. In August, a lavender festival is held here. During the harvest period of lavender, it isn’t unusual to find yourself behind a slow truck or tractor which are packed with bundles of lavender and, when the lovely fragrance of it fills your car, you won’t mind the slow pace.Return the same route back and this time head for St Saturnin les Apt, the home of a ruined chateau at the top of a climb, and D111will return you back to Apt. This area is well known for the ochre that was once mined here and you will pass areas where the soil is a rich red or gold color. Roussillon is well worth a stop for being both an interesting village and the site of a walk through some of the rich colored canyons. In many of the stores you can buy packets of the ochre colored powder in many different ranges of shades that can be mixed with paint and sponged on a wall back home, taking a little of Provence back with you- sunshine on the wall.

Lavender Route 1

Route 1: Towns and Villages of Upper Provence

Begin your day at Forcalquier. If you can, be here on a Monday. This unspoiled town is the site of Monday morning market known throughout France as the largest in Provence. The stalls selling fruit, vegetables, local crafts and art, hats, handmade soaps of infinite variety and tantalizing scent, dancingly colored provençal fabrics will tempt you irresistibly. Leaving town you may get lost as roads are badly marked in this area but don’t be concerned—getting lost is part of the fun, and taking any road will inevitably take you to a new experience.

You will travel to and through villages sometimes too small even to have a bakery—startling in France!—and eventually reach road signs pointing you in the direction of the larger towns. But if you can follow the D950 you will be on a scenic road leading to Limans, then to Le Rocher d’Ongles. Continue on the D950 to Banon, famous for its goat cheese wrapped in chestnut leaves and tied in little bundles with twine. Leaving Banon, follow the D51 to the D201 until you reach Simiane-la-Rotund. You will see this village perched high on a hill overlooking fields of lavender; it is one of the famous perched villages of Provence. It is a good stopping place for coffee, food, photos or simply to visit the local artists selling their wares here. A huge rotund tower at the top, and the hollyhocks blooming everywhere in summer make this an interesting village to walk.



Leaving Banon, follow the D51 to Rustrel, then to Gignac, where you can take the D33to Viens and then Cereste. At Cereste, go in the direction of Apt on N100. Keep your eyes open on the left in about 20 Kilometers for the sign to Saignon. Another perched village, Saignon, is a fascinating place to wander and perhaps to stay the night. It would also be a good base for relaxed exploring in the region