Friday, January 11, 2008

Christmas in Cologne

Christmas in Cologne

Germany’s famous Christmas markets open early in December and usually remain open until December 23rd, some until a few days later. But by Christmas Day, most have closed after three weeks of providing mulled wine, sparkling ornaments and a wide variety of gifts and abundant Christmas spirit.


In the market at Cologne

Cologne is a German city that embodies the Christmas spirit. Christmas markets of various specialties punctuate the city, filling squares large and small with tantalizing foods, gifts, decorative items and always sausages, pretzels, and mulled wine. One of the largest takes place near the magnificent Cologne cathedral, a site worthy of a trip to the city all by itself. The floodlit cathedral, with a huge lighted Christmas tree calling attention to it, loudly speaks of the seasonal spirit.


The cathedral at Christmas

Christmas music is exceptionally rich in this cultured German city as well. The magnificent concert hall that is almost adjacent to the cathedral has a rich program of music throughout the weeks before Christmas. A Christmas concert we attended last December offered a brass ensemble playing glittering carols and classics to an enthusiastic audience that filled the house, and one of Germany’s top opera stars, in a mesmerizing tenor voice, spoke—yes, told and did not sing in a voice that resonated above and beyond all language barriers—Christmas tales between musical numbers.


Cologne's magnificant concert hall

By Christmas eve, the markets have closed, the city shops close, and everyone prepares for the next’s days festivities, which in Germany are family oriented. Legend tells that the practice of decorating trees at Christmas began when Martin Luther, walking home one wintery night, saw the stars above glittering through the snowy branches of an evergreen tree. Others would claim that the origins of decorating a green tree with lights and fruit, gifts and other symbols of abundant life lie much, much farther back, in the magic pagan rituals associated with the winter solstice.

Whatever the beginnings of the Christmas rituals, Christmas music, Christmas spirit, it is difficult for anyone, Christian or other, not to feel the spiritual mystery of this deep winter season. The Christmas eve and Christmas day services that occur in Cologne’s many churches proclaim a continuing belief in renewal and rebirth after a desolate period of frozen life. In Germany, given its twentieth-century history, this message is particularly powerful.

5 comments:

Becca said...

This is a wonderful post, Linda. My sister-in-law is German and goes every year to Cologne for the Christmas fairs. I truly hope to go someday ... and the Christmas message told so beautifully must be thought-provoking. The photos are lovely.

Anonymous said...

I've never visited Germany -- it would be amazing to do this trip during the holidays!

Anonymous said...

Linda, I really am enjoying the new blog about more of Europe...though please don't ever give up Paris and Provence.

One of the most exciting adventures of the holidays in Europe are the Christmas markets. I love those in Paris, Brussels, and Brugges. I understand that there are Christmas outdoor markets also in NYC. Bet they can't compare with those in Europe.

We had an interesting experience in Caracas, VZ this December. They have many nativity scenes and live nativities around the pier, the harbor, and in many parks.

Having large, colorful nativity scenes and in many places live nativities is spectacular....the best part of the holidays for me.

Anonymous said...

I made the Christmas market in Frankfurt a couple of times, but they were so crowded I hate to admit I stopped going. But I am glad that you have these photos so I can visit this one!

Anonymous said...

Beautiful post! Love the photos.